In Calgary, your roof gets all the glory, but your eavestroughs do all the work.

They are the unsung heroes of your home’s exterior. They silently manage thousands of liters of meltwater during a January Chinook, take the brunt of golf-ball-sized hail in July, and prevent your basement from flooding during those intense June thunderstorms.

Yet, most Calgary homeowners don’t think about their gutters until they fail.

Whether you are noticing a dripping corner, a detached downspout, or are simply looking to upgrade your exterior, this guide covers everything. We have compiled the top 25 most frequently asked questions about materials, sizing, costs, and city bylaws to help you navigate your next project with confidence.

Part 1: Materials & Terminology (The Basics)

1. First things first: Is it “Eavestrough” or “Gutter”?

In Canada, we use the terms interchangeably, but “Eavestrough” is the technically correct term for the trough attached to the eaves of your home. “Gutter” is the American standard term.

• Pro Tip: If you are searching for contractors in Calgary, you will get better results searching for “Eavestrough repair” than “Gutter repair,” as local pros tend to use the Canadian terminology.

2. What is the absolute best material for Calgary’s climate?

Unlike siding, where there are many good options, eavestroughs have a clear winner for our climate: Aluminum. However, there is a hierarchy:

• Standard: Aluminum (0.027″ or 0.032″ gauge). This is what you see on 95% of Calgary homes. It is rust-proof, lightweight, and holds paint extremely well. It flexes slightly with temperature changes, which is critical when it hits -30°C.

• Premium: Galvanized Steel. Steel is the “heavy-duty” upgrade. It is significantly stronger than aluminum, making it resistant to ladder damage and heavy snow loads. However, if the paint chips, it will rust eventually.

• Avoid: Vinyl (Plastic). Vinyl gutters are sold at big-box stores for DIYers. Do not use them in Calgary. They become brittle in the cold and will shatter if hit by hail or a stray shovel in winter. The seals between sections also fail rapidly due to thermal expansion.

3. Seamless vs. Sectional: Is “Seamless” really necessary?

Yes. In Calgary, “Seamless” (Continuous) eavestrough is not a luxury; it is a requirement for longevity.

• The Problem with Sectional: Sectional gutters (10-foot pieces joined together) have seams every 10 feet. In a climate like ours, where temperatures swing 40 degrees in 24 hours (Chinooks), the metal expands and contracts. This movement breaks the sealant at the seams, causing leaks within 2–3 years.

• The Seamless Advantage: Seamless troughs are roll-formed on-site from a truck to the exact length of your roofline. The only seams are at the corners (miters). Fewer seams mean fewer leaks.

4. Should I upgrade from 5-inch to 6-inch eavestroughs?

This is the most common upsell in the industry right now.

• 5-Inch (Standard): Sufficient for most standard bungalows and bi-levels in communities like Acadia or Dalhousie with asphalt shingles and moderate roof pitches.

• 6-Inch (Large Volume): Highly recommended if you have:

  • A steep roof pitch (common in new infills in Altadore or Marda Loop).

  • A metal or slate roof (water slides off these faster than asphalt).

  • A roof area over 1,500 sq. ft. draining into a single gutter run.

• The Math: A 6-inch gutter holds roughly 40-50% more water than a 5-inch gutter. This extra capacity is vital during those intense “1-in-100 year” storms that now seem to happen every summer in Calgary.

5. What gauge (thickness) of aluminum should I ask for?

Not all aluminum is created equal.

• 0.023 inch: “Builder grade.” Very thin. prone to denting from ladders or hail. Avoid if possible.

• 0.027 inch: The residential standard. Good balance of cost and durability.

• 0.032 inch: Heavy gauge. Recommended for areas with high snow load or if you are choosing 6-inch profiles. It is stiffer and resists wavy “oil canning” along long runs.

Part 2: Installation & Mechanics

6. Spikes vs. Hidden Hangers: Which is better?

If you look at older homes (pre-2000s), you will see large nail heads (spikes) every few feet running through the gutter. Do not use these.

• The Issue: Over time, the freeze-thaw cycle “jacks” these nails out of the wood. Once they pull out, the gutter sags, and you cannot simply hammer them back in because the hole is stripped.

• The Solution: Hidden Hangers. These are brackets that clip inside the trough and screw into the fascia board with a threaded screw. They are invisible from the street and offer far superior holding power against snow loads.

7. Why does my eavestrough slope? Isn’t it supposed to be straight?

Ideally, an eavestrough looks straight from the street but actually has a subtle slope toward the downspout.

• The Rule: You need roughly 1/4 inch of drop for every 10 feet of run.

• The Calgary Reality: If your trough is perfectly level, water will sit in it. In summer, this breeds mosquitoes. In winter, this standing water freezes into a solid block of ice, weighing down the system and causing it to pull away from the house. Proper slope is the #1 defense against winter damage.

8. What is a “Box Miter” vs. a “Strip Miter”?

This refers to how the corners are sealed.

• Box Miters: These are pre-fabricated corners that the straight troughs slide into. They are considered “DIY grade” and look bulky. They add two seams per corner (one on each side of the box).

• Strip (Hand) Miters: The professional standard. The installer cuts the aluminum at a 45-degree angle and joins them with a single seam strip and sealant. It looks cleaner and has fewer failure points.

9. Can I reuse my old downspouts with new eavestroughs?

Technically yes, but it is rarely a good idea.

• The Aesthetic: Old downspouts are often faded, dented, or have different paint dyelots than the new aluminum.

• The Fit: New outlets (the hole where water leaves the gutter) are often larger to improve flow. Connecting a high-flow 3×4 inch outlet to an old, small 2×3 inch downspout creates a bottleneck that will cause overflows.

10. Do I need to replace my Fascia board when I replace gutters?

Not always, but often. The fascia is the wooden board behind the gutter. When we remove old gutters, we often find the fascia is rotted due to years of leaks behind the trough.

• The Fix: If the wood is rotted, it must be replaced. You cannot screw new gutters into rot.

• Cladding: Many homeowners choose to install “Aluminum Fascia Cladding” (a metal wrap) over the wood at the same time. This makes the fascia maintenance-free (no more painting).

Part 3: Winter Survival (Ice Dams & Chinooks)

11. Why do I get massive icicles on my gutters?

This is usually a symptom of Ice Damming, not a gutter defect.

• The Mechanics: Heat escapes your home through the attic insulation. It melts the snow on the roof. The water runs down to the overhang (eaves), which is cold because it’s not over the heated house. The water refreezes there, forming a dam.

• The Result: Water backs up behind the ice dam and drips over the edge—or worse, backs up under your shingles and leaks into your attic.

• The Gutter Role: Gutters provide a “shelf” for this ice to build on, but they do not cause the dam.

12. Will “Heat Tape” or heating cables fix my ice dams?

Heat cables are a “band-aid,” not a cure.

• How they work: They melt a small channel through the ice to allow water to drain, preventing the dam from growing huge.

• The Cost: They are expensive to run (electricity) and often burn out after 3–5 years.

• The Real Cure: The permanent fix is usually improving attic insulation and ventilation. If your attic is cold, the snow won’t melt, and dams won’t form.

13. Should I remove my downspout extensions in winter?

NO. This is a critical mistake.

• The Risk: If you flip up or remove your extension, the meltwater from Chinooks will dump directly beside your foundation. Because the ground is frozen, this water cannot soak in. It pools against the concrete and freezes, causing cracks, or finds its way into your basement window wells.

• The Rule: Keep extensions down and pointing at least 4–6 feet away from the foundation all winter.

14. What are “Snow Stops” and do I need them?

Snow stops are metal brackets installed on metal or steep roofs to prevent large sheets of snow from sliding off all at once (an avalanche).

• Why they matter for gutters: If a 500lb sheet of snow slides off a metal roof, it will tear the eavestrough right off the fascia. Snow stops break up the snow so it melts gradually. If you have a metal roof in Calgary, snow stops are mandatory to protect your gutters.

15. My gutters make a loud “pinging” or “cracking” noise in winter. Why?

This is thermal expansion. Aluminum expands when hot and contracts when cold. When the sun hits a frozen gutter on a -20°C day, the metal warms up rapidly and expands. If the hangers are too tight or the run is very long, the metal slips against the brackets, making a loud creaking or popping sound. It is annoying, but generally harmless.

Part 4: Maintenance & Protection

16. Do “Gutter Guards” actually work in Calgary?

This is controversial.

• The Issue: Many mesh screens that work well for rain fail in winter. Snow sits on top of the mesh, melts, and refreezes, forming a sheet of ice. This turns your gutter into a “ski jump,” causing meltwater to overshoot the gutter entirely and drip on your walkway.

• The Recommendation: If you have no trees, you don’t need guards. If you have poplars or pine trees, look for Perforated Aluminum Covers (rigid metal with holes) rather than flimsy mesh. They are strong enough to hold snow load and generally shed ice better than mesh.

• Maintenance: No system is “maintenance-free.” You will still need to brush off the tops of the guards occasionally.

17. How often should I clean my eavestroughs?

Twice a year is the Calgary standard.

1. Late Spring (May/June): To clear out the “helicopter seeds” from maples, blossoms from fruit trees, and general winter grit.

2. Late Fall (October/November): Crucial. You must get the leaves out before the snow flies. If wet leaves freeze inside your gutter, they turn into a heavy brick of ice that can warp the metal.

18. How do I unclog a downspout that is packed solid?

If the downspout is clogged with dry leaves:

1. Remove the bottom elbow (extension).

2. Use a garden hose to spray water up the spout to loosen the debris.

3. Or, use a plumber’s snake (drain auger) from the top to push the blockage through.

• Warning: If the downspout is frozen solid with ice, do not hit it with a hammer. You will crush the aluminum. You must use hot water or a heat gun (carefully) to melt the core.

19. Can I pressure wash my gutters?

You can, but it’s messy.

• Technique: If you use a pressure washer, you will blast wet muck all over your roof, siding, and face.

• Better Way: Hand-scooping the bulk debris with a gutter scoop and then flushing with a standard garden hose is cleaner and allows you to verify that the downspouts are draining correctly.

20. Why is water dripping behind the gutter?

This is a “Drip Edge” issue.

• The Cause: If the shingles don’t overhang the gutter far enough, or if the “drip edge” flashing is missing, water curls back under the shingle and runs down the fascia board behind the gutter.

• The Fix: A contractor can install a specialized flashing called “Gutter Apron” that slides under the shingles and over the back edge of the trough, forcing water into the gutter.

Part 5: Costs, Bylaws & Hiring (2025/2026 Data)

21. What are the current prices for Eavestrough in Calgary?

Pricing fluctuates with aluminum commodities, but for 2026, you can expect:

• 5″ Continuous Aluminum: $6.00 – $10.00 per linear foot.

• 6″ Continuous Aluminum: $9.00 – $14.00 per linear foot.

• Removal & Disposal: $1.00 – $2.00 per linear foot.

• Downspouts: Usually priced similarly per foot, plus extra for elbows/outlets.

• Box Miters (Corners): $30 – $50 per corner.

• Strip Miters (Custom Corners): $50 – $90 per corner.

• Minimum Charge: Most companies have a minimum job charge of $600–$1,000.

22. What does the City of Calgary say about downspouts?

The City is strict about drainage (Bylaw 37M2005).

1. The 2-Meter Rule: Downspouts must terminate at least 2 meters (6.56 feet) away from any city property (sidewalks, back lanes, pathways). This is to prevent you from creating an ice rink on public walkways.

2. Property Lines: You cannot direct water onto your neighbor’s property.

3. Permeable Surface: Water must be directed onto grass, garden, or a permeable surface where it can soak in—not onto a concrete driveway that slopes to the street.

23. Are rain barrels legal/useful in Calgary?

Yes, they are legal and encouraged.

• The Benefit: They reduce stormwater runoff and provide free soft water for your garden (plants love it).

• The Warning: You must disconnect and drain them in October. If you leave a rain barrel full of water over winter, it will freeze, split, and potentially ruin the attached downspout.

24. How do I choose a trustworthy contractor?

The barrier to entry for eavestroughing is low (anyone with a truck and a machine can do it). To weed out the amateurs:

• Ask about corners: “Do you use box miters or strip miters?” (Pros use strip miters).

• Ask about hangers: “What is your hanger spacing?” (Should be every 18–24 inches maximum).

• Check WCB: Ensure they have WCB coverage. Ladder work is dangerous; you don’t want to be liable if someone falls.

• Warranty: Look for a 3-5 year workmanship warranty. If a gutter is going to leak due to bad install, it will happen within the first few seasonal cycles.

25. Can I just seal a leaky corner myself?

Yes, for a temporary fix.

• The Product: Do not use silicone caulk. It does not stick well to aluminum in the long run. Use a specialized Gutter Sealant (e.g., LePage Quad or thermoplastic sealants).

• The Method: You must clean the area thoroughly. Scrub the old sealant out with a wire brush, dry it completely (use a hair dryer if needed), and apply the sealant to the inside of the gutter, not the outside. Sealing the outside never works.

Conclusion: Don’t Ignore the Drip

Your eavestroughs are easy to ignore—until they aren’t. A $500 repair today can save you a $50,000 foundation excavation tomorrow.

In 2026, the trend in Calgary is toward robust, high-capacity systems (6-inch troughs, high-flow outlets) that can handle our increasingly volatile weather. Whether you are battling pine needles in Varisty or wind-driven rain in Seton, ensuring your water management system is up to spec is one of the smartest investments you can make.

Your Next Step: Walk around your house the next time it rains. Look for three things:

1. Water overflowing the edge (clog or too small).

2. Water leaking from corners (sealant failure).

3. Downspout extensions that have fallen off or are pointing at the house.

If you spot any of these, it’s time to call a pro.